Forum Title: Moving a Door
Good day all, I've recently purchased a new home and want to make some updates. Likely the most difficult project on my list in moving the entry door (from garage into living area) from the front of the house/garage to the back. I've attached a very crude mock up to illustrate what I'm interested in attempting. Anyone with prior experience want to share some tips or suggestions of things to be aware of and keep in mind? I'm interested in knowing approximately how long a project, like this, will take. I can easily dedicate 2-3 days (in a row) of work to complete it. My questions are 1. How tough is a project like this? 2. How much would a project like this run (we're recycling the door) 3. What all is involved? Helpful information - The house is just over 40 y/o - The wall is drywall, insulated with studs and firewall on the garage side. - We want to reuse the existing door. * Please post any questions needing additional information Thanks for reading, Jeffhttp://i637.photobucket.com/albums/u...garagedoor.jpg
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: CRYSTAL COLEMAN (Glendale, AZ), 01/03/2019

Just my opinion...screen door...3-5 bucks. The main door looks to be in good condition, but thrift stores aren't where people go to pay premium prices. Maybe $30 if it was in need of nothing more than a minor refinishing. Instead of Goodwill, see if you have a Re-Store near you. Its run by Habitat for Humanity and is also a tax deduction. You can use their pricing as a guide for your deductions.

- ROBERTO STANLEY (Revere, MA), 02/16/2019

As mentioned, look for and move any wiring (after tripping the breaker to that) before you cut the new hole. Frame and install a new header, furr up the floor where the plate was, if needed, install new stud and trimmers, and drywall the new opening. THEN remove the door casings, cut side nails from the jambs, after removing the hinge pins (label them, do not mix), and door slab. Lift out frame (jambs, head, thresh-hold) and install temp. in new hole. Adjust door with shims, nail off, install casing. Patch old opening. Fire-tape on garage side, texture house side. Be safe, Gary

- WALTER HILL (Orange, CA), 03/07/2019

Pulpo and Gary covered it -- the issue will be any plumbing or wiring in the wall where the door will be going. If there is any, the wiring is easy to deal with for any competent handy person. If you have any doubts about you ability, or if State Law says you must, then hire an electrician to deal with it. If plumbing is involved, water pipe is pretty easy to deal with as well, as long as you have the ability to reroute it. Any drain or vent pipe in the wall will be trickier. Drains have to run downhill, and vents have to run uphill. The framing and finishing is pretty straight forward. Just remember that on the garage side you need a firewall. The sheetrock on that side will be 5/8, and any joints have to be taped. The door itself has to be fire rated for at least 20 minutes. A solid wood door MIGHT work, as long as it's fire rated. A metal door will work.

- Boris Dunn (Fresno, CA), 02/23/2019

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